Driving the Mae Hong Son loop
Getting behind the wheel in Thailand doesn’t get any better than the winding Mae Hong Son loop, a spectacular 2 to 3-day drive that takes in the remote northwest, an idyllic region of misty mountain tops and isolated hill tribes at every twisting turn.
To make the most of this scenic stretch of road, set aside 3 days and get hold of a sturdy four-wheel drive vehicle, especially when taking the trip during the rainy season. Chiang Mai has many car hire companies offering suitable vehicles for between 700 and 1,500 baht a day including insurance. Try booking online in advance for the best deals.
Set off before 08:00 to miss the worst of the traffic on Chiang Mai’s Superhighway. Take the turning for the Mae Rim road (Highway 107) continuing to Mae Malai, just before Mae Taeng, and then follow signs for Pai. Here the road starts to climb as it winds up the hills which mark the approach to Huay Nam Dang National Park. For some of the best views on this stretch of road, take a left at Papae and drive five kilometres to Pha Hin, where the lookout point takes in the surrounding valley and 2,000-metre high Mon Angket Mountain.
The next stretches of the Pai road are very poor in places but the road gets better at Pha Deng, just before the Pong Dueat Hot Springs and Elephant Camp. After driving for 3 to 4 hours, Pai makes an ideal spot for lunch with its many tourist-friendly cafés and restaurants such as the Shark Bar and Restaurant, considered one of the best in town for western food. Chez Swan is a good choice for a mix of Thai and French dishes. This little town is popular with backpackers and has a decidedly bohemian character, so it’s worth planning to spend time here. More on Pai.
The next stretch of road is perhaps the most spectacular of the whole loop. No sooner is Pai left behind before the scenery becomes both remote and spectacular, the road turning into a rollercoaster with dramatic views at every turn. This is the very northwestern-most corner of Thailand, between 10 and 20kms from the Myanmar border. Make sure you stop regularly to take in the views and give the breaks a chance to cool down - you’ll be using them a lot. After passing over a steep saddle you descend into Sappong (Pang Ma Pha district) which is world famous for its limestone hills and numerous caves. This includes Tam Lod, which offers Black Water rafting.
From Pai, it’s about 3 to 4 hours to Mae Hong Son (with stops), meaning there should be enough time to check into a guesthouse by idyllic Jong Kham Lake before watching the sun go down over the water. This town, is the most remote in Thailand, on a wild frontier of Northeaster Myanmar, and sits prettily in a valley that is surrounded by hills and often shrouded in mist. There are several temples and viewpoints to visit in this town, along with the tourist magnet of the bizarre long-necked Paduang women with brass coils elongating their necks. More on Mae Hong Son.
It’s an early start the next day, ideally around 08:00, for the long drive south to Mae Sariang. The road here is much less winding, but the scenery still wonderful as the first stretch flanks Mae Surin National Park to the east all the way to Khun Yuam. South of here, numerous rivers criss-cross the road as they flow into the surrounding valleys all the way to Mae La Noi, a bustling little town that makes a worthwhile stop. The last stretch to Mae Sariang, about 35kms farther, takes in the Salawin Wildlife Sanctuary as valleys turn to thick forest on both sides.
Reaching Mae Sariang around 13:00 means it’s lunch time. Head to the Riverside Guesthouse to check in for the night before enjoying their excellent terrace restaurant overlooking the river. The Vietnamese spring rolls and Karen curry should not be missed. Quite a bit of the town sits along the banks of a pretty Mae Nam Yuam which empties into the important Salween river.
National Park rip-off?
Thailand has some wonderful national parks, but some are better than others. After increasing the entrance fee for foreigners ten-fold to 200 baht in 2003, the National Parks Board again elected to hike the prices 100% to 400 baht in January 2007! Frankly, most of them aren’t worth that and we’ve tried to indicate here which justify this steep fee. In light of many complaints; 1stopthailand made a formal complaint to the Minister of Sport in October 2007, and he responded that a review was underway because so many tour operators have suffered loss of business. Unfortunately sensible decisions including all stakeholders don’t always occur in Thailand. We happily support a boycott of some of these poorly managed facilities. Alternatively many are still accessible after 5pm when the gate-keeper has knocked off ;-) Mok Fa waterfalls and Thapae Hotsprings in Pai are NOT worth the fee, but Doi Inthanon is.
The afternoon presents the perfect opportunity for relaxing by the river or walking around the town. Attractions include the Pha Ma Lo Karen Village, just three kilometres from the town centre and selling hill tribe handicrafts, particularly fabrics. A number of Buddhist temples are also worth a look such as Wat Kitti Wong and Wat Uttaranyon, both with strong influences from Myanmar, just 20kms to the west. For dinner, try out the relaxed Sawadee Restaurant just a few seconds walk from the Riverside with its mixture of western and Thai food and similarly excellent river views.
The next morning, it’s a lazy 3-hour drive back to Chiang Mai via Hod, taking in the Chaem River, Ob Luang National Park and yet more winding, hill passes. In other words, the perfect end to the Mae Hong Son loop. You have the option to make a detour into the lovely Doi Inthanon National Park, which includes Thailand’s highest mountain (2200m) and several impressive waterfalls. There are several resorts at the base and chalets to rent at the park headquarters half way up. A road leads right to the mist shrouded summit where you will find to modern chedis erected in honour of the King and Queen. More on Doi Inthanon.
Travellers tales: Pai in the Sky
Northern Thailand’s most chilled out destination, a bohemian mountain hangout to relax and do very little...more
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