Travel guide to Mae Hong Son
Tourists with a 'Long Neck' Paduang woman
Mae Hong Son is a truly isolated frontier town, reached via a windy five-hour drive over the mountains from Chiang Mai. Tours often stop off here as part of the popular Mae Hong Son loop, which is a classic Northern Thailand mountain experience. The city lies in a pretty valley bordered by Myanmar to the north and west, and consequently has a strong Burmese influence. Though the town itself is not particularly beautiful, it has a number of enticing temples and fabulously scenic surroundings, along with a pretty lake at its centre and an altogether sleepy character.
Mae Hong Son's most striking attraction is the temple of Phra That Doi Kong Mu, up on a hill overlooking the city. The wat was commissioned by Mae Hong Son's first king, Phaya Singhanatracha, and has lovely views over the city and its surroundings. From here you can see the pond - known as Nong Jong Kham - which creates a lovely spacious park in the city and is responsible for all the famous postcard images reflecting the distinctive temple on its edge.
Temples of interest include Wat Hua Wiang, containing a sacred image, and Wat Phra Non, which houses a massive Reclining Buddha statue in the Burmese style.
Perhaps the most visited, however, are Wat Chong Klang and Wat Chong Kham, which are beside the pond and display the distinctive tiered roofs and tin filigree so typical of Burmese temples. These two are known for their impressive glass paintings depicting the life of Buddha, and over 30 wooden doll carvings that originated in Myanmar. The Chong Kham Pond was once a bathing pool for elephants, and is particularly impressive in the early morning mists, reflecting the temple.
The city's high street is Khunlum Phraphat road, which is filled with handicraft outlets, restaurants, bars and tour companies. This is a prime place to pick up hilltribe textiles and antiques. Singhanat Bamrung road is distinguished by its traditional Shan teak wood houses, and the local crafts and fabrics that are sold in its stores.
Wat Jong Klang over the lake at sunset
The months of November and December are special in the Mae Hong Son area due to the startlingly yellow wild sunflowers that smother the fields of Doi Mae U-Kho. If you happen to be in the area at this time of year, make a special effort to visit this colourful expanse - the golden blanket created by the blooming flowers is a truly spectacular vision. In early January there is a famous Shan novice monk parade – the Poi Sang Long festival - when young sons are dressed up; make up 'n all.
On the way to Mae Hong Son, on highway 1095, it is worth stopping at the charming settlements of Pai and Soppong (Pang Mapha). Pai is a quaint riverside town, boasting tranquil hot springs, a vibrant town centre with a funky bohemian feel, and cheap, humble guesthouses. Soppong is much quieter, and more suited to those preferring early nights and active days. The major attraction here is Tham Lod, with its blackwater rafting. The whole area is famous for its karst topography and resulting vast cavern system, featuring the remains of ancient wood coffins. Caving is rewarding here and for this you’ll want to spend the night at Cave Lodge. The owner, John Spies is an expert on the area.
Past Soppong, towards Mae Hong Son, is the nature reserve of Tham Pla Forest Park. Here you will find a small cave with a pool at its base. The water is teeming with fish that the local people believe to be an incarnation of sacred spirits. There are several more hot springs in the area signposted along the way.
Mae Hong Son can be reached by car from Chiang Mai via highways 1095 or 108, or by buses leaving several times daily from the city's Arcade bus station. Mae Hong Son has an airport, but there are no direct flights from Bangkok - you will need to fly to Chiang Mai and take a connecting plane from here. Hiring a car and driving the famous 'Mae Hong Son' loop via Pai and returning via Doi Inthanon National Park (south of Chiang Mai) is a wonderful adventure that will take about three or four days because of the windy mountain roads. The views and scenery make it all worthwhile.
Sticking your neck out for tourism
A big tourist attraction in Mae Hong Son, though a somewhat controversial one, is the three Paduan villages of Nai Soi, Hoi Sen Thao and Huay Ma Kehn Som, famous for their long-necked women. Complete with coils of brass ring, this tradition has been exploited for tourist purposes and visitors are charged 250 baht for the privilege of turning this into a human zoo. However, it's about the best opportunity this minority group have at making money, and contrary to appearance, the neck isn't actually elongated; the clavicle bone is simply forced down and does no harm. Since much of the entrance fee doesn’t end up in the Paduang’s pockets, tourists are encouraged to buy their handicrafts.
Where to stay in Mae Hong Son - guesthouses & hotels
Rooks Holiday Hotel and resort: is a high-end establishment south of the main town, with rooms, bungalows and full facilities. It has 114 suite & superior rooms and 70 unit bungalows. Room rates are 2,040-2,340 baht (includes breakfast). 114/5-7 Khunlumprapas Road, tel: (053) 612 324-9, 611 390, email: rooksgroup@hotmail.com.
Piya Guesthouse: by the side of the pond, across the road, has simple, affordable bungalows and small garden; centrally located. Features 14 rooms at 600 baht. 1/1 Khunlumprapas Road, Soi 3, tel: (53) 611 260, email: piyaguesthouse@hotmail.com.
Baiyoke Chalets: has a nice atmosphere and off-season discounts, though it is often booked out. Rooms (38) from 1,280 baht (breakfast included). 90 Khumlumpraphat Road (10-minute walk from the centre), tel: (053) 611 486, 611 862, 611 536, email: baiyokemaehongson@hotmail.com.
Updated and correct: January 2012
Note! To secure a guaranteed room and find the best rates, we suggest you look online at Agoda.com. They seem to be the most competitively priced of the hotels sites.
