How to get around in Chiang Mai

Getting around Chiang Mai is a fairly straight-forward if sometimes nerve-wracking experience. Despite Chiang Mai's reputation as a tranquil city full of temples and surrounded by scenic nature, you can forget about images of quiet tree-lined streets frequented by pedestrians and smiling pensioners on bicycles. No, Chiang Mai's streets have become busy and sometimes congested.

The first option is to travel in the famous Thailand tuk tuk. Many visitors to Thailand are familiar with these from their trips to Bangkok. Riding a tuk tuk is the quintessential Thai experience, and although you are at the mercy of breathing car fumes, these small vehicles are very effective at beating the traffic. You may grow tiresome of the "hello, tuk tuk" shouts, but having haggled a price beforehand, you should end up at your requested destination and not unexpectedly pull up outside a jewellery shop or dodgy tailor.

Then there's the over-abundant songtaews, which are Chiang Mai's bus and taxi service rolled into one. These are red pickup trucks with a canopy and twin rows of bench seating. The mafia-like songtaew association has seen to it there are almost as many songtaews in Chiang Mai as there are people (well, not quite, but they are certainly way too many of them - a congestion menace).

These ply the popular routes and are so frequent you needn't wait long to flag one down. If they are heading in your direction, the standard fee is 20 baht, but they'll go anywhere for a reasonable price unless they already have passengers. They don't mind cruising the streets half-empty, thus proving to be efficient and convenient; besides, they'll pull over at will, do u-turns and travel the wrong way up one-way streets, much to the chagrin of other motorists.

Songtaews cruise the city centre or congregate outside the flower market, Suan Dok hospital, Central shopping mall and other spots, including the entrance to Chiang Mai University (for trips up Doi Suthep). They also double as removal vans and some even cruise suburbs at 10kph with noisy advertising commentary blaring from rigged speakers.

A very limited bus service now exists, and the distinctive yellow metered taxis are now trickling into Chiang Mai, offering comfort and air-conditioning. In Chiang Mai city, a journey never takes more than 20 minutes, unlike Bangkok.

The most practical way to get around Chiang Mai is definitely by hired motorbike. Some simply don't have the nerve to tackle the traffic and bizarre driving habit here, but everyone travels at an easy pace, there's room for everyone, and this certainly isn't big, bad Bangkok.

The famous Honda Dream is a classic, ridden by millions across Asia. These 100cc 'step through' bikes/scooters are ideal for getting around, with their clutchless transmission and easy handlings. There are other similar makes, as well as the Honda Wave, and even an automatic model from Yamaha.

Motorbike hire costs about 150 baht a day, and it gets cheaper if you rent them for a few days; in fact, you can get one for a whole month for 3000 baht, but if you plan to tackle some mountains or ride two-up, then go for a 125cc. Here in Chiang Mai, we've seen whole families of four on a single bike, plus dogs, cats and other odd things balancing on the rear. Each comes with a handy front basket - don't leave your helmet in it though, that should be on your head!

If your ego is too large for a scooter then, by all means, go for a 150cc Phantom or bigger bike, but these can cost up to 500 baht a day, since all bikes bigger than 150cc have to be imported. Trail bikes are ideal if you plan to explore Northern Thailand, with its steep hills and rough side roads; this is a popular activity.

Cars can be hired too, but driving them in the city is likely to be a frustrating experience and four wheels are only useful if it's raining or you intend on exploring the province.

Hiring bicycles is also popular among tourists, but the Thais will look at you as if you are deranged! For sure it's the best way to explore the narrow, quiet lanes of the old city, but the heat and humidity make it uncomfortable and, outside of the moat, traffic isn't very respectful of cyclists.

With all these hire options, you are spoilt for choice as there are numerous places clustered around tourist streets near Thapae Gate and the Loi Kroh area. Prices are competitive and don't vary much, so the quality of the bike is the most important criteria for choosing. Be aware that many don't come with insurance, but it’s worth paying the extra fee as motorbike theft is on the rise in Chiang Mai.

The last option is your own two feet. There is no substitute for discovering a city by walking at your own pace, but set out early when it's quieter and cooler. Thai cities aren't very good for walking - the traffic ignores zebra crossings, the pavements are often crowded with hawkers or full of holes and street dogs can be a nuisance.

Safety warning

Be very wary of your speed and always keep an eye out for bad drivers, Chiang Mai is full of them. In fact, poor driving is one of the city's worst problems, and many simply don't have a licence or any regard for road rules. Other drivers may suddenly pull out in front of you without even looking, abruptly stop, overtake dangerously, and ignore motorcyclists. Some also stop and park where it suits them, weave through traffic with a death wish, ride the wrong way up the road into oncoming traffic, and more. Always pay attention and drive conservatively. Accidents are regular and when they do happen, the offender is reluctant to accept any responsibility. You also cannot rely on an effective traffic police or ambulance service here.